What's this socket called?

[toml_12953]

I have a large parts bin and notice that some of my DIP sockets have curves in the pins so that they just snap into place on a circuit board with no holding required. My sockets that have straight legs require me to solder one corner then make sure the socket is flush with the board before soldering a second pin and then the rest of the pins. I'd like to get in a supply of the bent-pin type. They're less work and give perfect results. The problem is that I don't know what to search for! I got the ones I have by happy accident. What do I call those DIP sockets when searching?

[teenix]

IC socket, Through Hole, Kinked Pin

Digikey have some, most likely other suppliers like Mouser

cheers

Tony

[toml_12953]

(09-29-2024 03:06 AM)teenix Wrote:  IC socket, Through Hole, Kinked Pin

Digikey have some, most likely other suppliers like Mouser

cheers

Tony

Perfect! That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

[AnnoyedOne]

(09-29-2024 12:41 AM)toml_12953 Wrote:  I have a large parts bin and notice that some of my DIP sockets have curves in the pins so that they just snap into place on a circuit board with no holding required.

I don't think I've used through-hole components since the 1980's. Surface mount since.

I remember using a finger/object to hold DIP sockets in place while I tack-soldered a pin or two. Sometimes I burnt a finger tip doing this.

Nowadays I can barely see SMD components I think I have some (very old) DIP sockets somewhere. I used "turned pin" ones. Never have seen "kinked pin" ones.

A1

[toml_12953]

(09-29-2024 04:43 PM)AnnoyedOne Wrote:  I don't think I've used through-hole components since the 1980's. Surface mount since.

A1

I can't get the hang of SMD. I always end up either destroying the part or creating a solid string of solder where individual pins should be. I do use a lot of liquid flux but my solder doesn't flow onto the pins like it does in the instructional videos.

[teenix]

(09-29-2024 11:02 PM)toml_12953 Wrote:  I can't get the hang of SMD. I always end up either destroying the part or creating a solid string of solder where individual pins should be. I do use a lot of liquid flux but my solder doesn't flow onto the pins like it does in the instructional videos.

I have done this thousands of times, it generally works quite well. It is getting a bit difficult with my aging eyes especially with 0603 parts, but still doable. I use a magnifier headset and a bright LED desk light which helps.

I place my mobile phone torch under the circuit board where a muti-pin part is to be soldered to illuminate it from behind. This makes lining it up easy. Solder one or 2 pins on one corner, adjust the part if necessary, and solder an adjacent corner pin to fix it in position.

I use Chemtools solder paste in syringes (lasts for ages) and a chisel style soldering iron tip. I know there are different types, but I find the small solder well in these tip aids with even solder flow along multipin surface mount ICs. Just put some paste along the IC pins, load some solder onto the tip, not too much, just enough to fill the well, and wipe it along the pins, solder side down. An example for 40 to 64 pin ICs, each side takes about 20 seconds to paste and solder.

You do have to remove solder bridges sometimes, but if you add a small amount of paste to the pins in question, and remove any excess solder from the tip, usually just touching the bridge draws the excess solder away. Having a strong light behind the board helps to see bridged joints. Always clean the tip after removing a bridge, before trying to remove another.

A simple trick for closely spaced pins is to only look at pins in horizontal alignment. It is easy for an eye to see bridges this way. If you try to look at pins in a vertical alignment, you can sometimes see double pins or they are blurry. Rotate the board 90 or 180 degrees to check the other IC pins. Same with small ruler graduations :-)

For resistors, caps etc, you can place a tiny amount of paste on the circuit board solder pads, place the component and hold with tweezers, the paste helps. Same deal with the iron tip, just a small amount on the tip and touch it to the joint. You will get a nice shiny and clean joint. Do the same to the rest of the pins and job done.

You need to clean the excess flux from the board, even if just using flux cored solder. Isopropyl alcohol does a good job and is cheap. I use an ultrasonic cleaner as it gets all the gunk out from under the ICs and parts as well.

After awhile, you instinctively know how much soler to use how much time is needed to drag the iron without under/over heating the part - about 3 seconds to solder along each side for the IC's mentioned, and about 1 second for component joints.

As with everything, experience helps, but this technique doesn't take too long to get the hang of.

cheers

Tony

[Maximilian Hohmann]

Hello!

(09-30-2024 04:39 AM)teenix Wrote:  As with everything, experience helps, but this technique doesn't take too long to get the hang of.

On places like Aliexpress, Amazon or eBay they sell very cheap "SMD soldering practice kits" (just enter this as search query for your preferred China merchandise portal). A good alternative to ruining your precious calculator with your first attempts at SMD soldering!

Regards
Max