Multi Calculator Kit

[teenix]

Hi all,

Another update.

After much frustration, I managed to get the HP-10 KISS calculator microcode completed and working properly. I ran the calculator through every problem in the owners manual.

Attached is an image of a calculation example from the manual, with the final result on the LED display on my earlier prototype. There is also a copy of the printout as generated from the PIC which has intercepted the printer data from the HP10 microcode and transferred it to the PC for formatted printing.

Just have to run some last tests and hope all is well before I get a chance to build one next week when I get home.

cheers

Tony

[PANAMATIK]

[quote='teenix' pid='84328' dateline='1511939868']
Hi all,

Another update.

After much frustration, I managed to get the HP-10 KISS calculator microcode completed and working properly. I ran the calculator through every problem in the owners manual.

/quote]

Fantastic! Now take a nap.

[teenix]

Hi all,

I have put together 2 calculator boards now and both seem ok.

I have drawn up an overlay in a Word document for the HP-45. It fits ok on paper but should look nice on a vinyl print from an inkjet or laser printer. I will try to put the board in a case I purchased. I doubt I will be able to offer these as they will take some time to put together and I don't have access to any form of manufacturing facilities, so it will be home grown in my garage.

I will be uploading all the new files to teenix.org soon.

cheers

Tony

[revwillie]

(12-12-2017 10:28 PM)teenix Wrote:  ... I doubt I will be able to offer these as they will take some time to put together and I don't have access to any form of manufacturing facilities, so it will be home grown in my garage......

I've thought about the home grown case option a lot since soldering together an NP-25 kit last year. There was an injection molding machine at the techshop near me when I visited an open house there and I've considered signing up for classes just so I could churn out some cases and buttons. But I have a full time job and a million other things to do.

Another option I'm looking into: Hand-molded Sugru (see: https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Mouldable-G...B075XS15RC)

I've experimented with a couple of non-calculator applications but I've thought about using sugrue either for creating negative molds and/or for molding actual buttons and face plates or cases within a suitable mold.

[teenix]

I've thought about the home grown case option a lot since soldering together an NP-25 kit last year. There was an injection molding machine at the techshop near me when I visited an open house there and I've considered signing up for classes just so I could churn out some cases and buttons. But I have a full time job and a million other things to do.

Another option I'm looking into: Hand-molded Sugru (see: https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Mouldable-G...B075XS15RC)

I've experimented with a couple of non-calculator applications but I've thought about using sugrue either for creating negative molds and/or for molding actual buttons and face plates or cases within a suitable mold.
[/quote]

Yes, it is a bit of a problem.

I imagine access to a 3D printer might help quite a bit.

I'm sure a thin but sturdy keyboard frame could be designed out of a square cross hatch pattern about 5mm or so high and 1 or 2mm wall thickness, with the frame holes where the keys would be. The top surface would be flat and solid and be about 1mm thick.

The key pads could be a simple C shape cut out of the top surface from inside each of the underlying frame holes (Say a 1mm gap all around). Most of the bottom edge would still be connected to the top plate for flexibility. That way if you press the pad it will tilt over and downward. This would then activate the switch sitting just below it with only about 1mm of movement required.

Some extra supports for the key frame would have to be high enough to sit on top of the PCB over the switches and provide places for some mounting posts for small screws from under the PCB. There should be no pressure on the centre area of the keyboard as the switches will take the finger load for each key press.

The key pads will not protrude above the top flat keyboard surface so a simple vinyl overlay could be used for any of the keypads.

I was thinking of 0.3mm thick fridge magnet material or similar. It prints nicely on a suitable inkjet printer or from a printing company and is flexible. If there is a thin strip or two of metal glued under the keyboard frame edges then the label should cling to the surface and be interchangeable easily. The 3D printed key frame could have slightly raised edges to keep the label in place. Holes could also be in the face for the display LEDs and switches with some clear red perspex glued from underneath.

A bit of design work I'm sure, but someone with expertise might be able to help.

I have completed a "garage mockup" of a HP-45 with a real HP-45 next to it for comparison.

It is a bit rough especially around the switches as the overlay is just on paper, but the switches work ok just underneath. The case was just a general purpose ABS plastic case which I cut down. The cable is powering the calculator via the USB port although batteries can be used.

cheers

Tony

[rprosperi]

(12-14-2017 01:52 AM)teenix Wrote:  I have completed a "garage mockup" of a HP-45 with a real HP-45 next to it for comparison.

It is a bit rough especially around the switches as the overlay is just on paper, but the switches work ok just underneath. The case was just a general purpose ABS plastic case which I cut down. The cable is powering the calculator via the USB port although batteries can be used.

Thanks for posting this shot Tony; I previously thought your MCK was larger than it really is. I like this better, though of course that also means that it's harder to work on.

[PANAMATIK]

(12-14-2017 01:52 AM)teenix Wrote:  I have completed a "garage mockup" of a HP-45 with a real HP-45 next to it for comparison.

Very nice! Is there some reason why you did change 1/x and LN key places? ENTER right of CLX key I could understand, because it is nearer to the numbers keypad.

Bernhard

[teenix]

(12-14-2017 09:24 AM)PANAMATIK Wrote:  

(12-14-2017 01:52 AM)teenix Wrote:  I have completed a "garage mockup" of a HP-45 with a real HP-45 next to it for comparison.

Very nice! Is there some reason why you did change 1/x and LN key places? ENTER right of CLX key I could understand, because it is nearer to the numbers keypad.

Bernhard

Hi Bernhard,

I missed that, but the 1/x LN is just reversed on the artwork. Easy to swap.

I wasn't sure if the numbers would be better on the right or left half of the keyboard, but decided on the right. As you mentioned, I thought it might be better to have the Enter key closer to the numbers.

cheers

Tony

[teenix]

Hi all,

I have just uploaded all the new emulator files to http://www.teenix.org.

I have done an unknown quantity of changes to all the software so hopefully it works ok.

I tried hard to make the new MultiCalc PIC be compatible with the earlier calculator project as the two PICs are pin compatible, but the changes were just too many and I couldn't make it possible.

The new version of the HP-10 is now available with a totally new microcode program. It worked with every example in the owners manual so hopefully ok.

I have 3 MultiCalc boards made up. If anyone wants to take the punt and get #1 then some details are available on the web site. As mentioned, they are offered at cost for $Aus52.00, about $US40, or about 34 Euro plus postage. I can send unassembled or pre assembled if desired.

Some features

Emulates original microcode for HP19C, HP21, HP22, HP25, HP27, HP29C, HP31E, HP32E, HP33E, HP34C, HP37E, HP38E, HP35, HP35 with bug, HP45, HP55, HP65, HP67, HP70, HP80, plus my code for the HP10.

15 digit LED display
Easy PIC Menu or PC model selection
In built USB PC interface
PIC code is reprogrammable via USB
USB or battery powered
Program storage for 408 x HP65 or HP67 programs. The HP65/67 reads/writes "cards" under control of the original microcode.
Program storage for 256 x programs total for HP19c, HP25, HP29c HP33e, HP34c, HP38e and HP55
Continuous memory for HP19c, HP29c and HP34c
PC printer interface for HP10 and HP19c
Switches usable for all functions for the different models

cheers all

Tony

[Massimo Gnerucci]

PM sent

[teenix]

(12-15-2017 09:16 AM)emersone12 Wrote:  You should be talking to Swiss Micros about getting this project/hobby into mainstream commercial production for permanency of availability to all. Many would purchase this as a commercially available product that resurrects the famed calculators of the past.

Everything is freely available for creating this type of project. I would imagine they would be using totally different hardware and developmental software and would certainly have the expertise to create a nice one if they would like to.

cheers

Tony

[SlideRule]

I got 404 errors for the 19c, 34c & 38 zip downloads.

SlideRule

[rprosperi]

(12-15-2017 01:47 PM)SlideRule Wrote:  I got 404 errors for the 19c, 34c & 38 zip downloads.

Confirmed, same here.

[teenix]

(12-15-2017 02:21 PM)rprosperi Wrote:  

(12-15-2017 01:47 PM)SlideRule Wrote:  I got 404 errors for the 19c, 34c & 38 zip downloads.

Confirmed, same here.

Oops sorry - Fixed.

cheers

Tony

[SlideRule]

Many mAny maNy manY thanks!

Best!
SlideRule

[teenix]

Hi all,

I have managed to implement the low power displays in hardware for all the emulated MultiCalc models which will be useful when operating on the batteries.

For example, all the decimal points will light on the Classic models when the battery voltage falls below a certain level.

For those that are waiting for their calculators to be delivered, you can update to this new feature easily as it was just a code change in the PIC controller.

I will upload to the web site soon.

cheers

Tony

[Paul Dale]

There are keyboard overlays in the zip archive.


Pauli

[teenix]

Hi all,

I have no experience with 3D design but have been playing around with a case for the MiltiCalc with OpenSCAD for a few hours.

The result so far looks like a bit like a Lego brick but is interesting to play with and who knows, it might evolve into a reasonable 3D print.

The idea is that a printed key overlay (vinyl or similar) is placed on the top face and the buttons are flush with the top surface and shouldn't need much pressure to operate. The key holes are about 8mm square, or could be round, and should allow fingers to dip just below the top surface to activate the key.

cheers

Tony

[hewlpac]

Many thanks for all the hard work Tony, received my Multicalcs today. Now gotta work up a case!!!

[attachment=5515]

[teenix]

(01-03-2018 02:07 AM)hewlpac Wrote:  Many thanks for all the hard work Tony, received my Multicalcs today. Now gotta work up a case!!!

Good news.

I'm still pottering around with a case too :-)

cheers

Tony