DM42 stack layout

[Orome]

What stack layout is illustrated in this video? I don't see it among the options in settings.

(For that matter, have the keys shown on the video been replaced by inferior ones. The ones on my unit are no where near as nicely moulded or printed.)

[pinkman]

Unfortunately I don’t have a DM42, but I think you could post your question in the SwissMicros forum: https://forum.swissmicros.com/

[Geoff Quickfall]

1). Beta version of the DM42. There are two holes in the back of the case (RESET. PGM) versus the production version (RESET only). From the date on the YouTube video also a beta version of the software. That display was removed as the double XY stack display was considered redundant.

2). Different silk screen yellow (duller) then the production version.

3). Same key hardware as the production version.

I have both the beta test unit #87 and production unit #885. I am reticent to re-install back dated beta software but I have all versions of the beta software on file.

The nice thing is the yellow key is solid yellow, unlike the DM41X beta versions which have a painted yellow key.

The nice thing about the production version of the DM42 is the yellow script matches the yellow key colour.

I never had and issue with my keys on the beta or production versions on the DM42 or the DM41X. However some have and it is down to the position of the domes when installed at the factory. If they are shifted a silly mm out (benson and hedges cigarette reference for you oldies) they do not contact as well as they should.

There are many fixes including removing and reinstalling the dome strips or contacting Swiss Micros.

At the moment I am testing the DM41X but the DM42 is a beautiful machine, it is just that I grew up on the 41C/CV/CX and it too, is fantastic.

Geoff

Quick edit for the additional post.

The micro USB port may be canted, another manufactory fault. This can be fixed by shaving the cable not modifying the calculator! There are some good quality USB cables which have longer insertion portion of the male end (there is a joke there) but it is an easy fix to shave plastic off the male end of the USB cable.

[Orome]

(05-09-2020 04:37 PM)Geoff Quickfall Wrote:  The nice thing is the yellow key is the yellow is solid unlike the DM41X beta versions which have a painted yellow key.

The nice thing about the production version of the DM42 is the yellow script matches the yellow key colour.

I never had and issue with my keys on the beta or production versions on the DM42 or the DM41X. However some have and it is down to the position of the domes when installed at the factory. If they are shifted a silly mm out (benson and hedges cigarette reference for you oldies) they do not contact as well as they should.

My keys are all "sunken" in the middle (like a fallen cake).

[Geoff Quickfall]

Is the bezel (the metal overlay with the script) loose in the center. The beta units suffered from a bad glue interface between the bezel and the shell giving an appearance of sunken keys i.e. the bezel may be bowed upward at the center as the glue loses adhesion.

In any case, contact Swiss Micros and explain your calculators symptoms.

Geoff

Admin: i think this would be better served in “not quite HP” section.


From a Swiss micros forum post by me. Also the fix is permanent, so far. It appears the black paint on the bezel leaked through to the back of the bezel. This dried in clumps and was not addressed at the factory. The contact cement strips were prevented from making a full contact to the calculator shell resulting in bowed and or loose sections on the bezel.

Finally my keyplate (bezel) finally off.

Close examination revealed the adhesive double sided tape did not adhere to the plastic base on the calculator. It did adhere to the metal bezel.

Examining the bezel I found the black base paint had leaked to the bezel reverse side causing two thick lumps which prevented the bezel from contacting flush, the plastic base of the calculator.

So for part 1:
[list=]
Remove the bezel gently or have it fall off.
Remove all residual adhesive from the plastic base on calculator mechanically; pick it off with tweezers.
Remove all residual adhesive from bezel. I used an adhesive remover after testing it on a corner of the front of the bezel.
Remove and flatten any overspray of paint on the reverse of the bezel.
[/list]

Tomorrow I will apply the black epoxy adhesive. This adhesive was purchased on eBay and was advertised as the epoxy adhesive used to secure Apple iPhone gorilla glass to the frame.

Here is the adhesive roll:



The adhesive remover which I have used successfully on many, many pioneers (42s family).



Reverse of bezel cleaned and sanded: scotch bright pad, sand paper for lumps of paint, adhesive remover, toothpicks for removing stubborn adhesive:



Bezel reverse cleaned. I used a shaving brush (SOFT BRISTLES), soap and water. Still as new.



Tomorrow I will apply the adhesive strips and the bezel. Will post then and over time to see how successful this adhesive is.

Geoff

[Orome]

(05-09-2020 05:25 PM)Geoff Quickfall Wrote:  Admin: i think this would be better served in “not quite HP” section.

Good point. How do I move it (or does that require an admin)?

[Geoff Quickfall]

I think admin has to do it if THEY deem it necessary. ;-)

[Geoff Quickfall]

Apparently it was necessary!

d;-)

[toml_12953]

(05-09-2020 04:04 PM)Orome Wrote:  What stack layout is illustrated in this video? I don't see it among the options in settings.

(For that matter, have the keys shown on the video been replaced by inferior ones. The ones on my unit are no where near as nicely moulded or printed.)

That's a very old beta version of the software. The option was eliminated in the shipping versions.