New Fix For Classic Silver Bar?

[Jeff O.]

Over the years there has been a fair amount of discussion regarding restoration of the (painted) silver bar above the keyboards on the Classic series. Various silver paints and pens have been recommended. I have tried a few, with fairly poor results, likely due to my non-existent artistic abilities. Recently* I did a semi-restoration of an HP-55 to get a decent working version in my collection. Having had no luck with previous silver bar restoration efforts, I tried to think of something new. Below are a couple of quick cell phone camera pictures depicting a new (to me, at least) technique that I used. Before I describe the method, I'll invite comments on how it looks, and/or conjecture on how I did it. If the consensus is that the technique might be worthwhile, especially in more capable hands, I'll "reveal" the technique, if no one identifies it. It was relatively simple and certainly nothing special, just one I do not recall seeing before. Quite possible it has been done before and maybe even described at this Forum. Sorry for the fairly poor picture quality. If there is interest, I could probably get higher quality images.




* - I say recently, but it has been over a year. I don't quite remember everything I did to the 55. I think I assembled one good unit out of a couple not-so-good units. In any case, I recently noticed that I had only two posts for all of 2020, back in January. I did not intentionally disengage from the Forum, but, for whatever reason or reasons, I just did not check in very often after about March, and did not feel I had anything much to say when I did check in. So I thought I'd start 2021 off with a thread about a fairly simple, low-tech, back-to-basics or however-it-might-best-be described issue.

       

[rprosperi]

Silver leaf pen?

I gotta throw something out there to get things rolling, so you'll eventually reveal it.

It looks great, I've a couple classic machines that need this kind of TLC.

Thanks Jeff.

[teenix]

I've used the liquid chrome pen from Molotov and it works great but the trick (for me) is to draw a continuous line without stopping. If you do stop, the paint will pool slightly at the point you stop at and then you have to start drawing again which leaves marks.

I use very fine emery paper to remove any raised edges created by missing old silver and this gives a scuffed and smooth surface for the new silver to take.

Always open to better and easier methods tho :-)

cheers

Tony

[striegel]

There is an adhesive-backed material used by modelers that gives a good chrome appearance to plastic models. It's called Bare-Metal® and it's offered in both gold and chrome (there may be others, but I have these two).

The supplier is a company with the name Bare Metal Foil Co. "Looks like metal because it is metal"

The reason I originally bought it was to try on the badges of a couple of beat-up HP12C and HP15C calculators. I didn't actually use it for that when Peter Monta started producing metal badges to replace missing or damaged ones.

Alan

[twoweims]

You will probably laugh at my ultra-low tech solution...
A Silver Sharpie.

I did an HP-55 and a couple of HP-67s over a year ago and they still look great.
Easy to touch-up if necessary.

[Massimo Gnerucci]

(01-05-2021 01:30 AM)striegel Wrote:  There is an adhesive-backed material used by modelers that gives a good chrome appearance to plastic models. It's called Bare-Metal® and it's offered in both gold and chrome (there may be others, but I have these two).

The supplier is a company with the name Bare Metal Foil Co. "Looks like metal because it is metal"

The reason I originally bought it was to try on the badges of a couple of beat-up HP12C and HP15C calculators. I didn't actually use it for that when Peter Monta started producing metal badges to replace missing or damaged ones.

Alan

I bought a chrome foil some time ago, but never find the time and nerve to use it on my beaten units.

[Paul Dale]

I've got a liquid chrome pen but my hands are no longer steady enough to use it properly


Pauli

[AndiGer]

Looks very nice, well done.
Would be interested in your method.
Andi

[Jeff O.]

Thanks to all for your interest and comments.

The method used was to cut thin strips of the foil tape one can buy at Home Depot or similar stores that is primarily used to seal metal heating and cooling duct-work (as opposed to the plastic stuff called "duct tape" that should never be used on such ducts because it eventually rots and fall off). I cut a few strips of various widths and practiced on a carcass or two, then did the 55. I guess this would be a poor man's version of the "Bare Metal Foil Co." product mentioned above. Had I known that product existed, I likely would have ordered some. One sheet of that looks like a lifetime supply. A roll of the tape is 10 lifetimes, but at least has other uses. Knowing me, I will probably order the Bare Metal Foil stuff, just in case it looks better.

[Hans Brueggemann]

i'm using the home depot stuff since many years and cut it into stripes of desired shape using a steel ruler and a fresh x-acto blade.
i actually like the slightly thicker foil, because it is much less prone to wrinkling when applied over curved surfaces. gently burnishing the surface with a q-tip gives a shiny, almost mirror-like chrome finish. the adhesive has quite a strong bond which gives the finish a much higher robustness against wear than the chrome (silver) sharpie approach.

[albertofenini]

That's an interesting approach and a very good result, congratulations!

Have you tried an HP-65 or an HP-67 ?
Those two have a continuos trim line and it would be nice to see if it
is possible to cut out the whole profile without interruption

I have tried few types of markers but even the liquid chrome one, which sure gives a nice result,
doesn't last much if you really use the calculator

I'm thinking of using metallic fingernail polish sprayed with a micro airbrush
but I'm afraid the masking process would be really complicated.

It is possible to detach the faceplate and the red lens too from the chassis but it's quite risky,
I've done it and in few cases I have had bad cracking lines in both ...

Let us know if you make one of the two units

take care !!

[aurelio]

(01-05-2021 01:01 AM)teenix Wrote:  I've used the liquid chrome pen from Molotov and it works great but the trick (for me) is to draw a continuous line without stopping. If you do stop, the paint will pool slightly at the point you stop at and then you have to start drawing again which leaves marks.

Agree with Tony it's not soo easy to draw continuously and it depends also on the pen liquid flow.
But I think that cutting straight a so small piece of foil should non be easier in approach...
I attach a pic of three calulators in which I have restored the bar with a Molotov pen

[albertofenini]

Definitely agree and the results are pretty good, I have done a few myself.

What I have noticed is that it doesn't last much if you use the calculator
and believe me I have tried many way of letting it dry
but still, if you pass the finger over than the shiny effect get lost ...

With the HP65s just putting it in the leather pouch and taking it out a couple of times
takes the trim away

May be I should remove all the old trim ?

What I'm doing wrong and what are you doing differently ?

Thanks for help !!

[aurelio]

(01-12-2021 11:09 AM)albertofenini Wrote:  Definitely agree and the results are pretty good, I have done a few myself.

What I have noticed is that it doesn't last much if you use the calculator
and believe me I have tried many way of letting it dry
but still, if you pass the finger over than the shiny effect get lost ...

With the HP65s just putting it in the leather pouch and taking it out a couple of times
takes the trim away

May be I should remove all the old trim ?

What I'm doing wrong and what are you doing differently ?

Thanks for help !!

Alberto, I'm agree that it doesn't last much if you use the calculator but just if, as you wrote, you put it in the leather pouch inside and outside ....
Also if you completely remove the old trim and clean it the result is the same (it doesn't last much), I did it with the 35 , while for the others I just retouched at the beginning the original one, then I thought better to remove completely the old trim, this way you can draw continuosly and smoothly.
Certainly I'll not do it with the 35 in this second pic: I' ill keep it "as is" there's just a small dot and I'm not going to remove the original trim for that reason

[Jeff O.]

(01-12-2021 09:23 AM)albertofenini Wrote:  That's an interesting approach and a very good result, congratulations!

Thanks, I was surprised it worked as well as it did.

(01-12-2021 09:23 AM)albertofenini Wrote:  Have you tried an HP-65 or an HP-67 ?
Those two have a continuos trim line and it would be nice to see if it
is possible to cut out the whole profile without interruption

The trim on a 65 or 67 looks way too thin for me to think I would have the skill to cut the foil tape or apply it. Not sure what I will do if I ever want to restore the silver trim on one of those.

[aurelio]

(01-17-2021 09:52 PM)Jeff O. Wrote:  The trim on a 65 or 67 looks way too thin for me to think I would have the skill to cut the foil tape or apply it. Not sure what I will do if I ever want to restore the silver trim on one of those.

I think only the pen with these trims, and paper tape applyed on both the sides (expecially on the display side) to avoid spots. I will post when I'll back home a pic of a 67

[toml_12953]

(01-17-2021 09:52 PM)Jeff O. Wrote:  The trim on a 65 or 67 looks way too thin for me to think I would have the skill to cut the foil tape or apply it. Not sure what I will do if I ever want to restore the silver trim on one of those.

With bare metal foil, you apply it first then cut it. It cuts easily and is easy to apply. Unfortunately, it doesn't stand up to a lot of rubbing so you wouldn't want to use it where your hand comes into contact with it frequently.

[vk6ti]

If your really in love with the calculator, or need to do a few of them,
What about the old fashion way with copper paint and a simple Electroplating chroming kit.
I realize there is more cost and effort but It would give you an original finish.
Ray

[aurelio]

here attached a pic of the HP67's trim, retouched with a pen

[toml_12953]

(01-19-2021 04:06 PM)aurelio Wrote:  here attached a pic of the HP67's trim, retouched with a pen

Very nice! With my skill (or lack of) it would be a mess.