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RMollov · (This post was last modified: 05-15-2018 03:40 AM by RMollov.)

Bad news. I did try to swap keys of the hp49g+ and HP39gs with no success. Pulled off their screen protectors. HP49g+ had no screws underneath and I moved to the HP39. Pulled it apart within a minute and found dozens of little screws I thought were holding the board to the base. Took them out, but the board was still solidly stuck to the bottom. Looks like those screws were driven into hollow white plastic heatstakes. At this point I gave up. Put it all back together, leaving one of the buzzer's leads unsoldered (it came off when I split the shelves.), so now HP39 is quiet.
I love RPL and would like to give newRPL a go. Now I'm thinking about making stickers for key legends.

I took some pictures, if anyone is interested, I'll post them here.

Cheers,

Vtile · (This post was last modified: 05-14-2018 02:42 PM by Vtile.)

(05-14-2018 01:42 PM)RMollov Wrote: Bad news. I did try to swap keys of the hp49g+ and HP39gs with no success. Pulled off their screen protectors. HP49g+ had no screws underneath and I moved to the HP39. Pulled it apart within a minute and found dozens of little screws I thought were holding the board to the base. Took them out, but the board was still solidly stuck to the bottom. Looks like those screws were driven into hollow white plastic heatstakes. At this point I gave up. Put it all back together, leaving one of the buzzer's leads unsoldered (it came off when I split the shelves.), so now HP39 is quiet.
I love RPL and would like to give newRPL a go. Now I'm thinking about making stickers for key legends.

I took some pictures, if anyone is interested, I'll post them here.

Cheers,

Yes please.. I also didn't even try to get the keyboard out with my 50g when I had it opened. The buzzer is easy to solder back if you have a soldering iron. The element itself is glued to the back cover so it is easier to just desolder the wires when you need to get a good access to the PCBs than try to pry the element out of its attachment.

The screen faceplate should come off also with some thing sheetmetal or screwdriver when you carefully pry it from the side of the HP-logo, this works at least with once removed faceplate. One must be carefull though to not to make a visible dents to the corners, so the suction cup method is better in this viewpoint.

Thomas Radtke · (This post was last modified: 05-14-2018 07:18 PM by Thomas Radtke.)

(05-14-2018 01:42 PM)RMollov Wrote: Now I'm thinking about making stickers for key legends.

Wouldn't it be easier to remap the keys?

Edit: I just now looked at the 39gs keyboard. Well...

Claudio L. · 05-15-2018, 01:51 AM

(05-14-2018 01:42 PM)RMollov Wrote: Bad news. I did try to swap keys of the hp49g+ and HP39gs with no success. Pulled off their screen protectors. HP49g+ had no screws underneath and I moved to the HP39. Pulled it apart within a minute and found dozens of little screws I thought were holding the board to the base. Took them out, but the board was still solidly stuck to the bottom. Looks like those screws were driven into hollow white plastic heatstakes. At this point I gave up. Put it all back together, leaving one of the buzzer's leads unsoldered (it came off when I split the shelves.), so now HP39 is quiet.
I love RPL and would like to give newRPL a go. Now I'm thinking about making stickers for key legends.

I took some pictures, if anyone is interested, I'll post them here.

Cheers,

Post your pictures!!

Take a look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKt-BIbti0k

The board is attached to the front plate with plastic rivets you need to remove (this is likely the same for the 39, the screws alone are not holding the board). This was a long time ago, but I didn't use a drill bit like in the video, I just took a screw and drove it in the rivet, then I removed it. It weakened the rivets enough that with twizzers I was able to bend them in and the board came out. Then I put the screws back into the rivets to secure the board when I was done.
Also, I did not desolder the buzzer from the motherboard. I used a spatula between the buzzer and the plastic, and it came off. When I put it back it wasn't making good contact and didn't sound as loud, but still worked.

I don't think the 39 would be so different from the other calcs to secure the board. It probably has the same rivets in the same position (same motherboard after all).

Conanford · (This post was last modified: 01-18-2022 02:55 PM by Conanford.)

First of all, thanks for all the hard work that has gone into this.

Just wondering, are the fonts on the hp39gs build limited in fonts installed? It seems only Font6A is being used for anything. Tried changing FNTSTK and FNTSTK1 to Font8C and Font10A for example, but all are stuck on 6 pts. Image attached.

VERSION 1497

[strike]Tried for example:
‘Font10A’
‘FNTSTK’ STO[/strike]

Got it working! Seems like all fonts were set to size 6 (or smaller) by default. There is a wiki on GitHub and one on hpgcc. Is there a best one for regular users to contribute to for tutorials for new users? Not sure if the hpgcc one is meant to be kept ad clean as possible. I know on GitHub it’s as simple as a pull request (and the owner of that level of the tree has to accept it).

Now to figure out what became of the CST menu…

Sorry iOS is mangling the single quotes.

Claudio L. · 01-18-2022, 03:27 PM

(01-18-2022 12:28 AM)Conanford Wrote: First of all, thanks for all the hard work that has gone into this.

Just wondering, are the fonts on the hp39gs build limited in fonts installed? It seems only Font6A is being used for anything. Tried changing FNTSTK and FNTSTK1 to Font8C and Font10A for example, but all are stuck on 6 pts. Image attached.

VERSION 1497

[strike]Tried for example:
‘Font10A’
‘FNTSTK’ STO[/strike]

For others trying the same... the correct syntax is explained in the wiki:

https://newrpl.wiki.hpgcc3.org/doku.php?..._stofntstk

(01-18-2022 12:28 AM)Conanford Wrote: Got it working! Seems like all fonts were set to size 6 (or smaller) by default. There is a wiki on GitHub and one on hpgcc. Is there a best one for regular users to contribute to for tutorials for new users? Not sure if the hpgcc one is meant to be kept ad clean as possible. I know on GitHub it’s as simple as a pull request (and the owner of that level of the tree has to accept it).

There's one and only one official wiki at:

https://newrpl.wiki.hpgcc3.org

If you have any comments or corrections you'd like to see in the wiki, let me know. We have only few people contributing because the wiki needs to have a sense of consistency (it's a reference book after all), so it is not open to the public. If you feel like you can write send me a PM and I can give you access.

(01-18-2022 12:28 AM)Conanford Wrote: Now to figure out what became of the CST menu…

Sorry iOS is mangling the single quotes.

Look here...
https://newrpl.wiki.hpgcc3.org/doku.php?...ter2:menus
and here...
https://newrpl.wiki.hpgcc3.org/doku.php?...7:custmenu

Conanford · 01-19-2022, 03:56 AM

Thanks for the explanations, I had found the page on fonts on the wiki, but didn’t realize that the right arrow -> was a bona-fide character that could be entered as part of a command— I initially interpreted it as a shortcut for <itemname> STO. The small font side on an hp39gs (and my eyes) made it hard to find where the commands were in the menu system, once found and I realized that you could press put a menu item in ‘’ I could figure out where everything was (as the names are long enough to run off the edge of the soft menu “button”.

Thanks for the links on menu customization as well.

Conanford · 01-23-2022, 09:16 PM

I realized later that this thread on the current release is a better place to ask questions, and has a good 10 pages of info to go through. Posting for anyone else’s benefit who finds this:

https://www.hpmuseum.org/forum/thread-14562-page-4.html